Fuji X cameras have a lot of technology under the hood but once you have settings established you rarely have to go back to the menus for anything.
In fact if you compared the image in FB, or on my website, all in sRGB by converting to profile, and looked at my PS masters they would look exactly the same, and more specifically the prints would be just as vibrant.Just bought my XT2 and loving this info, certainly helps as the learning curve from xpro1 is possibly greater than moving to that from canon, many thanks
6 months ago permalink. Additionally I have the Composition Grid set in thirds. The blue line indicates the hyper focus zone of the lens, in this case from just inside of a foot to 5 feet. This can only happen when you are engaged with the scene before you and not buried deep in your menus. The whole article was beautifully written and a pleasure to read.
With only some subtle variations, I use the same settings and set up for all of my various photographic endeavors – landscape, street, architecture, and portraits. Much like the other settings described in this post this is another technical innovation from Fuji that allows me to focus on image making and not wondering if I am in focus or actually where my hyperfocus zone is located.
Additionally, if you go to the Set-Up Menu > Button/Dial Setting > AE/AF Lock Mode, and set it to AE&AF On/Off Switch, this will decouple the buttons and allow you to lock focus and exposure when the camera is set to C or S, AF Mode, and you are in Aperture or Shutter Priority.
Stop spreading the word that shooting in sRGB is shooting in a crippled format.
This is a great help for street photography or even for shooting portraits. The Depth of Field Scale has two options – Pixel Basis, and Film Format Basis. Memory Cards top. I guess I’m set up for studio quality prints in my workflow and you are set up for more web based uses. If you are in Manual Focus Mode and you have the AF-L Button set to AF-L Lock you can use the Button to Back Button Focus. Drop me a note if you have more questions or thoughts on the set-up. I think that is a stroke of genius from the Fuji engineers and another case on how they think about photographers. This usually gets me to within a stop or so of the right reading when I take a shot.Despite what camera you shoot with I believe having the Histogram viewable while you are making exposure adjustments is a must. There are obviously different options to how you contract that color space. I love having this kind of control that allows me to craft the image I want.
So glad the article helped you out. This was very helpful to me, in particular the parts about setting up for landscape.Wonderful article, i use some of the methods you have mentioned already, but require more practice. In a studio scenario, with lights, I would balance.
Anyway, thanks for regurgitating every gear-head article to me like it has real relevance in making prints or actually understanding color space.Contrary to what you say, it is absolutely possible to work in a larger color space, then transform to a lower color space on export.
The Green Line is my Horizon Level Line.
Depending on your needs you can choose to keep the colors 1:1, that does mean some truncation will happen at the edges. The only real difference comes from my all-manual process when shooting landscapes. The Distance Scale can be set in feet or meters based on your preference, and to set this go to the Set Up Menu > Screen Set Up > Focus Scale Units > Feet.The image below illustrates the base set-up for my Live View Screen which is also mirrored in my Viewfinder. While I could set the camera to Auto ISO and set ISO parameters, I tend not to do this and simply select the ISO I feel is right for the scene I am photographing, or to react to my sense of the light, and perhaps what shutter speed I might need for a clean and sharp capture.I almost always shoot in Manual Mode, and to be clear I set the Aperture, the ISO, and the Shutter Speed.
To set up your screen go to the Set Up Menu > Screen Set Up > Disp. Custom Settings and place a check in the box for the items you wish to display.The landscape images below were all shot using the various tools and settings I have outlined. With aperture and ISO set then it is a simple matter of just turning the Shutter Speed Dial to manipulate the exposure while looking at the effect in real time using the Histogram. It recognises Fuji's DR 400 in the sense that it renders the preview for RAW file at the right exposure. And that conversion matches the master without question. Since Fujinon lenses are all chipped this information is conveyed to the camera for each focal length. The three main things you really need – aperture, ISO, and shutter speed – are right on top of the camera. Phil Porto is a Wedding photographer and videographer, using Fuji since 2016 for all his professional work. It is all about simplicity my friends. Lots of good ideas here!Many thanks. I think the creation of the image, and in fact the best images, come when you are free to experience and react to the situation. Thanks again!! This is a question I have received several times and it often comes up during workshops where I see so many folks struggling with their cameras and settings.